Friday, June 27, 2014

Water Lily for the Modern Quilt Guild Michael Miller Challenge - a finish Friday


Michael Miller Challenge Quilt
Quilter in the Closet: "Water Lily" for Modern Quilt Guild Michael Miller Challenge Quilt 
It's finished!  Hooray for that!  This challenge quilt sure was a challenge.  I've never only worked with Fat Eighths before, never made this block before the challenge (though I did make a practice one for this challenge), and I quilted the whole thing while coughing and sneezing - no easy task.  Don't you just love summer colds?  But it is done, and I am pleased with how it turned out.

Here's a bit closer look at it:

Michael Miller Challenge quilt close up
Quilter in the Closet: free motion quilting the Michael Miller challenge quilt.

And for those of you who like a pic of a backside (not that kind of backside, mind you!).

back of challenge quilt
Quilter in the Closet: the backside (of the quilt, not my backside)

The piecing of the small Dahlia block was pretty challenging, and when it came time to quilt it, I didn't really want to cover up the block with any special quilting.  So, I just stitched it in the ditch.  Later I added some really small pebbling to the outer edge of the block so the flower shape would stand out a little more.  I also quilted a ghost block in the negative space, and my favorite Seafoam filler in the spaces between.  I think it makes the quilt look a little like a water lily floating on a pond during a gentle rain.

What do you think?


Thanks for reading today,

Jen


Linking up with:



I Quilt @ Pretty Bobbins

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Challenge Quilt - Building Blocks Tuesday

Today for Building Blocks Tuesday, I thought I would share the block I made for the Michael Miller Challenge through the Modern Quilt Guild.

MQG Michael Miller challenge

The block is a modified Small Dahlia block from EQ7.  I made a sample block (which is still unfinished), and modified the center.  This challenge has challenged me in several ways.  First, the block is difficult. Second, the challenge only gives you fat 1/8 ths of the challenge fabric to work with, and I was really stretching it to finish the block.  You can add a solid or another Michael Miller print to complete your quilt.  I went with the solid, but I've seen several other people add multiple solids and multiple other MM prints.  I guess it all depends on how you interpret the instructions!

 It is still a work in progress, but it is getting there.  Here it is all stitched in the ditch.

MQG Michael Miller challenge quilt in progress

Fingers crossed I don't mess up the rest of the quilting!

Anyone else going to QuiltCon?  Registration for guild members starts today, and I'm hoping to get into a class or two.

What blocks have you working on?  I would love to see.  Link up your fabulous blocks.  You put a lot of hard work into them - show them off!  This free linky will stay open until the first Monday of next month, but I will repost it every Tuesday until a new month starts.


Quilter in the Closet

Rules:

1) Please link up only to the page in your blog showing your wonderful blocks, not just the blog homepage.  Flickr pictures are also OK.
2) Make sure to put your blog name as the description so people know where they are going or the name of your block!
3) Please grab my button and post it in your blog post or sidebar.
4) Visit other linky participants!

Thanks for reading!

Jen



Friday, June 20, 2014

Modern art inspired Mini Quilt - a Finish Friday


Mondrian inspired modern mini quilt
Quilter in the Closet: Modern Mini's inspired by artists, this one was inspired by Mondrian

I finished another Modern Mini.  This one was inspired by Piet Mondrian, who you can learn more about here at the Moma site..  I've seen all kinds of Mondrian inspired things, including a mini petit four with a Mondrian-like interior!

When it came to quilting this mini, I stared at it a long time.   I didn't want to interfere too much with the pieced design, but I didn't want to just SID either.  In the end, I decided to try something new - thanks again to the Craftsy class by Jacquie Gering called Creative Quilting With Your Walking Foot (affiliate link).  In the class, she discusses trying out some of your decorative stitches for quilting.  Add that influence and a piece I saw in a recent Stitch Magazine on how to create your own plaid fabrics and well, this quilt was quilted.

Mondrian inspired modern mini quilt


I rather like the effect!  And I might have to try out that technique again soon.


Thanks for reading today,

Jen


Linking up with:



I Quilt @ Pretty Bobbins


**This post contains affiliate links and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

How to Machine Bind a Quilt - a "How I Do It" Free Tutorial


How I Machine Bind my Quilts
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: How to Machine Bind a Quilt
As I mentioned in Part One of this tutorial, when I finished my first quilt, I needed to know how to bind it. I was rather disappointed in the tutorials I found that only taught me how to secure the binding to one side, or were rather vague about how to stitch it down to the second side.  If you are a beginner and wondering how to bind a quilt by machine, I am pleased to tell you that this tutorial will show you how to attach your binding to both sides! Yeah!  But, I had to break up the tutorial in to two parts because it was too large, so please check at both tutorials, especially if you are new to the binding process.

Part One covered:
  • Attaching your binding to your quilted quilt (side 1)
  • Joining the tails of your binding
  • How to use the Binding Tool by TQM Products
  • How to trim and square up your quilt
Part Two will cover:
  • Attaching your binding to the quilt using your machine (side 2, or the back in the method I use)
  • Using glue to baste your binding to the quilt
In Part Two you will need:
  • your quilt with the binding attached to the front
  • Walking foot (highly recommended, but some people manage with a regular one)
  • an iron
  • good 'ole washable school glue
  • and of course your sewing machine and thread
Before we begin, you might be wondering what are the benefits of binding by machine?  Well, it is definitely faster!  I might be the world's slowest hand binder, but I am pretty confident that machine stitching your binding down is faster for everyone.  I could spend nearly all day hand binding a baby quilt, but I can machine bind it in under an hour.  For a busy mom, or a busy anyone, "time" is a 4 letter word that we all want more of, right?  Also, it is more stable than hand stitching.  So if you are making a quilt for a baby, or something like placemats that will be washed frequently, consider machine binding.  It will last a bit longer.

What are the cons of machine binding?  Well, I do think hand binding looks nicer from the back.  Even if you line your binding up perfectly, glue it in place, etc.  Sometimes things shift a little and it might make your stitching line look a little wild.  For me, that wild stitching is on the back of the quilt, so I care a little less.  That's just me!  Hand stitching your binding is very soothing, so if that is an important consideration for you, than I say go for it.  But this tutorial won't cover hand stitching your binding (maybe a future tutorial will).

Let's get started.

In Part One, we left off with a trimmed quilt top with the binding attached to the front side.

Start with your binding sewn to the front.
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: How to Machine Bind a Quilt
The first thing I do is lift my binding away from the front of the quilt and press it towards the edge, trying to get a crisp edge along that seam.

Iron your binding toward the back.
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: Press your binding toward the backside
Whoa! It's already time to get out the school glue!  As you can see, I use good old washable school glue.  The kids won't mind, besides they just make a mess of it if I give it to them.

Glue Basting Binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: Get out your washable school glue

Flip your quilt over so the back side is up.  I like to work from the right side of one edge toward the left, but it really doesn't matter.

Put a thin line of glue on the quilt, in the seam allowance.

Glue basting for binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: add a thin line of glue to the seam allowance

Then fold over your binding, making sure to cover the line of stitches created from sewing your binding to the front side.  Press with the iron to dry the glue.

Iron to dry glue
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: iron the binding in place to dry the glue

When I get to the corner, I like to test out with my fingers which way is most natural for the miter to go, meaning which side likes to be folded down first.  You would be surprised that it is not always the same way.

In this case, the side that I am gluing wants to be on top instead of on the bottom, so I'll just leave it for when I come around that corner.  I don't need to fight my binding, I go with the flow!


Mitering your corners
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: Corners

Once you figure out which side wants to lay down first, glue it there.  Doing so will make a little 45 degree fold at the end of the edge.  Then add glue to the next side of binding (the one that wanted to be on top).  I even put a little drop of glue right on the binding in the corner so that when I fold down the new side it sticks to the previous one.

Glue basting binding: Mitered Corners
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: apply glue to the corners and fold

Fold the binding over on to the line of glue.


Glue basting binding: mitered corners
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: a perfect mitered corner
 Once you fold down the new side on top, it will make a perfect mitered corner.  Hurry and press it so the glue will dry.

Continue all the way around the quilt, gluing and pressing until all the binding is glue basted in place.  Remember to cover the stitching lines where you attached the binding to the front of the quilt.

You might be wondering what happens if you get a little glue on your iron.  It is not a big deal.  Cool your iron, and use a damp paper towel to wipe off any residue.  It is washable glue, so it will dissolve with a little water.  Easy peasy!

Now take your quilt over to your machine.


Machine binding: SID from front
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: time to Stitch in the Ditch

From the FRONT of the quilt, I stitch right in the ditch between the top and the binding.

This is a great time to try out some of those decorative stitches your machine may have (see pictures at the end of the tutorial).


Machine binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: adjust your quilt for the needle position if needed

Just remember to adjust your quilt over a bit so that all but the left edge of the stitch ends up in the binding and no farther into your quilt than the ditch area.  This is easier to show than explain, so check out the pictures at the end of this tutorial and notice how all the stitching is in the binding.

It doesn't really matter where I start my stitching along one side, but I do backstitch a stitch or two to secure my start.

Machine binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: guide the binding with your fingers
Stitch along the side of the quilt.

I like to place my fingers under the quilt to guide it toward the walking foot.  This just helps prevent any random puckers that might be created from areas that didn't get glued properly.


The backside of the binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: check the back from time to time

Periodically, I like to double check the back of the binding to be sure that the stitching has caught the binding.  On the quilt in this tutorial, I used a blanket stitch, which stitches in a straight line in the ditch and jumps over a stitch or two into the binding, making it more likely to catch the binding on the back even if it has shifted or wasn't glued in place.

Corners: machine binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: stitch all the way to corner, then pivot
When I get to a corner, I stop with my needle down right in the corner, pivot the quilt, and continue stitching down the new side.  (Hmm, my foot is rather dusty, isn't it?)

Corners: machine binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: once you pivot, continue on down the new side
Continue stitching along the new side.  If your walking foot gets hung up on the corner.  I try lifting my foot with the needle in the down position.  When I put the foot down again, it is usually no longer hung up on the corner.

Back of the binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: the backside of the mitered corner
This is what the stitching looks like for the corner.

Continue stitching all the way around the quilt until you reach your first few stitches.  I like to stitch over a few of the initial stitches, then backstitch to secure my end, cut or bury your threads.

Here are some pics of some of the fun stitches I have tried out on my bindings (though the blanket stitch is by far my favorite).

sweet binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: using decorative stitches for your binding
My machine has a stitch that spells "Sweet"; I used it on a quilt for my daughter.


love binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: using decorative stitches for your binding
On the same quilt, I also used the stitch that spells "love".   Aw!!

spiral binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: using decorative stitches for your binding
If you have been reading my blog for a while, you know I have an affinity for spirals.  I even have a stitch that will put them in my binding!  Looking at this picture reminded me that I should use it again and soon.


Have you tried machine binding or do you only bind by hand?  How do you do it?  Have you tried out any decorative stitches; which are your favorites?  Link up your tutorials here (on this or any other quilting subject).


Rules:

1) NO QUILT POLICE ALLOWED! - if you are making a tutorial, keep it friendly, as if you were teaching your best friend.  If you are visiting a tutorial, please remember that the authors are simply sharing what they have found to work for them.

2) Please link up tutorials from 2014 only.  Feel free to point out any previous tutorial in your new post, but let's try to keep the links current.

3) Visit other linky participants to see how they do it.

4) Did I mention no quilt police allowed?

Thanks for joining me today!

Jen



How to Bind a Quilt: Part One - a How I Do It Free Tutorial


How I bind my quilts
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: How to Bind A Quilt
When I finished my first quilt, I needed to know how to bind it.  I searched the internet for help and found a lot of tutorials that showed how to attach the binding to the quilt, but many referred only to attaching it to one side.  They finished their tutorials off with a "flip your binding to other side and attach it", some specified to attach it by hand but didn't say how.  It was disappointing, because I needed help and I was still left with an unbound, unfinished quilt.

If you are a beginner and wondering how to bind a quilt by machine, I am pleased to tell you that this tutorial will show you how to attach your binding to both sides by machine!  Yeah!  I had to break up the tutorial in to two parts because it was too large, so please look at both tutorials.

Part One will cover:
  • Attaching your binding to your quilted quilt (side 1)
  • Joining the tails of your binding
  • How to use the Binding Tool by TQM Products
  • How to trim and square up your quilt
Part Two will cover:
  • Attaching your binding to the quilt (side 2)
  • Using glue to baste your binding to the quilt

The method I use, attaches the binding to the front first.  There is another method out there that attaches the binding to the back first, but I have had some mixed results with that method.  I have chosen to stick to this method because I can at least be sure that my quilt will look wonderful from the front (which is the important side, right?).

If you need a refresher on how to make Straightgrain Continuous Binding, see my tutorial HERE for that.

binding basics
Quilter in the Closet Free Quilt Tutorial - How to Bind a Quilt
To get started, you will need:
  • your quilted quilt
  • continuous binding - I am using 2.5 inch wide, straight-grain, double folded binding
  • the Binding Tool by TQM Products**
  • a walking foot (highly recommended)
  • a rotary cutter and cutting mat
  • some pins
  • a cutting ruler
  • and of course your sewing machine and thread (I choose a color to match my binding)

**The binding tool is optional, it just makes life so much easier!  If you have ever tried to join your binding tails and gotten them turned the wrong way, twisted, or trimmed them too long or too short, this product is for you.  I was that person!  I could never remember which way to turn my bindings to attach the tails, and even though I have had quite a bit of practice at this point, I still use this tool EVERY time!

And if you are thinking, why would I buy something that only has one purpose, I doesn't!!  Missouri Star Quilt Company (which is where I bought my binding tool), also has a video tutorial on how to use this tool to make a Friendship Braid quilt!  My tutorial here will use the binding tool, because that is "How I Do It".

the binding tool
Quilter in the Closet Free Quilt Tutorial: How to Bind a Quilt
And look!  The binding tool even has directions printed RIGHT ON the tool itself, so you will not need to print out or find the directions every time you bind your quilt.  Brilliant!!  Just Saying.

the beginning
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - getting started attaching your binding
Per the instructions on the binding tool, you will need to place two pins, 12 inches apart, and start with approximately 10 inches of binding.  Pin the binding in place using the pin on the right, aligning the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of your quilt.  I will be referring to this pin as the "Start Pin".

The quilt I am binding in this tutorial is rather small, so I chose one of its long sides, and my 12 inch span is right in the middle of that longer side.  If I was binding a large quilt, I would probably choose to put my 12 inch span near the end of one of my sides.  This 12 inch span is where you will be joining your tails, so you want to choose a part of your quilt that will be easily folded or bunched up, giving you room to join your tails.  This will be more clear when we get to that step and you are doing it yourself.

mark quarter inch from edge
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - place a pin 1/4 inch away from the end of the side you are stitching
Before we start stitching, place another pin 1/4 inch away from the end of the side you are stitching.  Make sure you can see your pin even when the binding is laying over it!

stitch from start to first corner
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: start stitching at the Start Pin and stop 1/4 inch away from the end

Start stitching at the "Start Pin" by stitching a few stitches 1/4 inch from the edge of the quilt, backstitching a couple of stitches and then continuing down the first side of the quilt.  STOP when you get to your pin that is 1/4 inch from the end!  Stop with your needle down.

Here is another few of approaching a corner (because my other pics of the first corner were out of focus).

stitch to the corner
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: stitch down binding 1/4 inch from the edge of the quilt

Remember to stop with your needle down right on the pin that marks the 1/4 inch from the end of the side you are stitching.

stitch to the corner
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - stop with your needle down 1/4 inch from the end of your side

Then pivot your quilt so that you will be stitching at a 45 degree angle from the edge of your quilt (see photo).


pivot at the end
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - pivot your quilt, stitch at a 45 degree angle off the edge of the quilt.

 Now stitch right off the edge of the quilt.

stitching the corners
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: black thread on black fabric is impossible to see!  SORRY!!

I realized at this point that black thread on black fabric was difficult to see, but that is what I was using.  The Red line is right next to my stitching line.  It makes a 45 degree pivot and goes right off the edge of the quilt.  I then cut my threads.

I used to take the quilt back over to my table at this point to prepare the corners, but now I do it right in front of me.  One less trip!

Fold your binding in the direction that is away from the body of your quilt (I think for all of us that would be to the right).  Because we stitched a 45 degree line off the edge, the binding will make a nice 45 degree fold.

turning the corner
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - turning the corners
Maintaining that 45 degree fold (I usually use my left hand to hold it in place momentarily), now fold the binding back toward the quilt (to the left).  The fold created in this step will be aligned perfectly with the edge of the quilt that you just stitched down AND the raw edges of your binding will now be aligned with the raw edge of the side of your quilt that you will be stitching next!


folding the binding in the corner
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - folding the corners of the binding

Pin this fold in place!


the corners
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - pin corner in place

Now pivot your quilt so that the new side is ready to stitch down.  I like to start a few stitches off the quilt, and I backstitch a stitch or two once I get on the binding.  Then I continue stitching 1/4 inch away from the edge of the quilt, all the way down the new side.  I also make sure that I've put a pin 1/4 inch away from the end of this new side, so I know where to stop and prepare my corner.

stitching the corners
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - continue stitching down new side

Continue in this fashion until you have attached binding to all but the last side of your quilt.  Prepare the last corner**.

** Again, because the quilt I am working on is small, I usually pin my corner and stop here.  By doing so, I actually give myself more than the 12 inches to fold my quilt in the next step.  The pin holds the corner secure and I don't have to really worry about it skewing the measurements for the joining of the tails.  If I was working on a larger quilt, I would turn the corner, stitch, and stop at least 4 to 6 inches away from the pin that marks my 12 inch gap.  With a bigger quilt, sometimes those extra few inches saves me a lot of cursing.

the final corner
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - the last side

Now get out your binding tool.  Align the straight end with your "Start Pin", and mark a line on your binding where the tools says "Mark Here".  I used a Sewline chalk pencil in this case.  Make sure the printed side of the tool is up (so you can read it).

finishing the last side
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial: using the Binding Tool

Now rotate the tool 180 degrees around to the other pin that shows your 12 inch gap. Don't flip it over.  Make sure you can still read the printed side and it is up.  Align the flat edge of the tool with your other pin.

finishing the final edge
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - marking with the Binding Tool

Mark another line on this tail of the binding where it says "Mark Here".

marked lines
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - one could use this information to join binding tails without the Binding Tool

I just wanted to show you that the lines you have marked on the tails are approximately 1/2 inch apart.


joining your binding tails
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trimming the tails

Now choose one of your tails, and line up the end/tip of the tool with your marked line.  Check to make sure the printed side is still UP! and that the body of the tool is along the binding that is attached to your quilt.  In other words, you want to make sure that you are trimming off the loose end of your binding.

joining the binding tails
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trimming the tails

Now, using your rotary cutter, trim the tail along the edge of the tool.  That little notch at the end is important, so cut it as well as the diagonal.  Now take your other tail...

joining your binding
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trimming the tails (this one is different!)

THIS time you will line up your marked line right underneath the "Mark Here" line.  To reiterate: first tail, line up your marked line with the end of the tool, 2nd tail line up your marked line with the "Mark Here" line.  This is important.  Again make sure the printed side is UP and that you will be cutting off the loose end of your binding.  Now make your cut.

joining the tails
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trimming the final tail

Aw, look at that!  Your tails are all ready to be joined and are going to fit together perfectly!

joining the tails
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - your tails are ready for joining
Now you are ready to join your tails.  Put right sides together and pin you tails together aligning the sides and notches created from the tool.  I told you those notches would come in handy - they should line up with the straight sides of the binding fabric from the opposite piece.

If you are using a solid fabric like I did, just pay attention to the folds in your binding to give you a clue to which side is the right side in your case. Remember your folds will make the wrong sides fit together when folded.

joining the tails
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - Pin your tails together, not on the donkey

Now take everything over to your machine, fold your quilt slightly so you can sew your tails together using a 1/4 inch seam.  This is when that 12 inch gap is important.  If you don't give yourself enough room, you won't be able to keep your quilt out of the way enough to stitch your seam, or it will at least be very awkward.

stitch your tails together
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - sew your tails together

Once you have sewn your tails together (gosh that sounds weird), press your seam open.


press your seams open
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - press your seam open

Yes, finger pressing is OK.  Now fold your binding in half again and align the raw edges with the raw edge of your quilt, and pin in place in a few places.  I find it especially helpful to pin in the area of that new seam you just created so you don't get any strange puckers.

the final edge
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - Pin the now joined binding down

Now I go back to the corner, and start stitching (1/4 inch away from the edge) down the final side.

stitch your final side
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - stitch the final side

If I had been working with a large quilt, I would return to the area that I stopped stitching, perhaps 1/2 inch from the end of my stitching line and start stitching again, backstitiching at the beginning of my new stitching line.

stitching the final side
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - stitch until you meet up with your first stitches

Once my final stitching line meets up with my "Start Pin", I will continue stitching past my first stitches a bit, then backstitch a bit, then cut my threads.

You now have your binding attached to the front of your quilt!  But now what?

binding attached
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - binding attached, now what?
You might have noticed throughout this tutorial that I still had a bunch of batting showing.  I like to wait until my binding is attached before I trim it.  I have tried trimming it before hand, but find that I actually have a harder time stitching my binding on straight.  Go figure!  I also noticed that my corners were not always square because the act of sewing down my binding stretched out my corners a little.  I don't know why.  And, my binding is more likely to be empty if I do it this way - more on that in a minute.  So I trim after my binding is attached.

Get out your ruler.  Choose a side.  Line up your stitching line under the 3/8 inch mark of your ruler.  In theory, this would also look like leaving 1/8 inch of batting showing from the edge of your quilt.

time to trim your batting
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trim your quilt
I like to line up my stitching line instead because sometimes I don't always stitch my binding straight.  GASP!  What can I say, sometimes I turn my head when stitching long lines and I go a little crooked.

If your quilt is longer than your ruler, just cut it in sections, lining up your stitches as best as possible.  As I just said, sometimes I go a little crooked, and that is OK.  If you have plus/minus 1/8 inch of batting in one place, it is unlikely to cause too much havoc.

Why 3/8 inch?  If you trim at this distance, your binding will be "filled" when it is completely attached.  "Filled" meaning not empty.  If someone rubs the binding between their fingers, you want it to feel like it has something inside it, like your quilt.  Is this a big deal?  Not really, but it is nice.  If you are entering your quilt into a judged show, it is a big deal, but if you are making a potholder, I doubt it will make much of a difference.

trimming
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - 3/8 inch from your stitching line

Now trim away the excess batting with your rotary cutter.

trimming
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trim excess batting

Pivot your quilt so that a new side is on the mat, line up your stitches with the 3/8 mark of your ruler and also check the side you just cut and the next side (see red arrows) to see if they are square along a line of your ruler.

trimming
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - squaring your quilt

If one of your sides does not line up with one of your ruler's lines, it means your quilt is not perfectly square.  Call the quilt police!!  Just kidding.  Unless you are entering your quilt into a judged show, it is not that essential.  You can always fudge your trimming a little (like plus/minus 1/8 inch) to get a square corner, then trim the standard 1/8 inch in the middle of your sides.  Unless someone is coming at your quilt with a ruler to check specifically for squareness, no one will notice the slight inconsistency.

trimming
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - squaring your corners

Now you have your binding attached to the front of your quilt, it is trimmed and ready to be turned to the backside and stitched down.  See Part Two: Machine Binding Your Quilt.

binding almost done, and quilt trimmed
Quilter in the Closet Quilt Tutorial - trimmed and ready for Part Two
How do you attach your binding?  Do you attach it to the front or back?  Do you trim your quilt first before attaching your binding?

How do you do it?  Link up your tutorials here (on this or any other quilting subject).


Rules:

1) NO QUILT POLICE ALLOWED! - if you are making a tutorial, keep it friendly, as if you were teaching your best friend.  If you are visiting a tutorial, please remember that the authors are simply sharing what they have found to work for them.

2) Please link up tutorials from 2014 only.  Feel free to point out any previous tutorial in your new post, but let's try to keep the links current.

3) Visit other linky participants to see how they do it.

4) Did I mention no quilt police allowed?

Thanks for joining me today!

Jen